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Tips for Happy Canine Campers

May 5th, 2011

Going camping and getting outdoors with your pets always sounds like great fun… until it isn’t.

Away from the routine and comforts of home can be stressful if you aren’t prepared. A little planning can make a huge difference in the fun factor.

If you are planning a trip, be sure to check out GoPetFriendly.com for pet-friendly campgrounds, hotels and restaurants. Once your trip is planned out, it’s time to get packing with these tips in mind.

Tips for Happy Canine Campers

1 ) First Aid Kit – This is probably a ‘no-brainer,’ but a first aid kit customized for your pet is even better. An extra supply of any current meds, or medications they might need, such as a vet-approved NSAID for pain from extra hiking, etc. are especially useful.

2 ) First Aid Training – A first aid kit is great, but if you don’t know how to use the items, it isn’t much use. When your dog is in pain and the situation is tense, staying calm and putting previous training to work is much more effective than guessing.

My vet colleague and I do a “wilderness first aid” class at our local REI store – check your outdoor stores for similar first aid intro classes. Check with your local Red Cross chapter or community college for more in-depth training on pet first aid.

3 ) Pet Identification – Is your pet’s collar tag and microchip registration information up to date? It is important to remember that cell phones may not work in the places you are camping. Adding a phone number of your vet or someone in town who could reach you is a good idea; either by adding a new tag or affixing the info to the current tag(s).

4 ) Food from home/regular diet – Keeping your dog’s diet as ‘normal’ as possible will help prevent diarrhea, upset stomach and pancreatitis. Fatty trimmings from campfire cookouts (and the yummy, drippy foil found on the ground!), corn cobs, and other camping feast foods can spell disaster for your dog.

5 ) Wildlife – Keep your pet in close range to avoid mishaps with wildlife – bites and unfortunate encounters with porcupines and skunks.

6 ) Extra towels and rags – A sudden downpour or swim in the lake can make for a wet dog who may get hypothermic with all of that wet hair as temps drop. Bringing a supply of towels to have on hand helps with the comfort factor too.

7 ) Flea, tick, mosquito and other bug protection - Your pet may already be on a monthly flea/tick preventative, but if not, check with your vet about the best product for your pet and where you will be traveling to. Extra caution for dog and cat households; products should never be used on a species it is not labeled for, and some dog flea/tick products are toxic to cats.

8 ) Keeping it routine – My dogs, like many, get to know and anticipate the normal routines of life very quickly. Travel and camping disrupt that routine. Most dogs go with the flow and are totally fine with this. Some aren’t. You may notice pacing, panting and even trembling if your dog is feeling out of sorts.

Throw in a thunderstorm or fireworks, and you may be up all night with a dog who is very frightened and won’t settle.

We pack the big bulky dog beds. The Greyhounds go “oh good – HOME” and settle right down. I am also a big fan of DAP spray to spritz on their beds. (I also love the DAP collars – see my review here.)

Finally, packing the Thundershirt is great to take a chill off the Greyhounds as well as provide a little comfort, if needed.

And sometimes…

Pets do better staying with family, friends or the pet hotel rather than braving the wilds of nature.

Photo credit: Bluey estoril/Flickr

Posted in K9 Care, K9 Expert Question, K9 Fun, K9 Health, K9 Nutrition | 2 Comments »

What do you do with all of that hair?

April 21st, 2011

Time to spring clean the pets! Pets need to be groomed all year round of course, but many are shedding more now and need help transitioning into their summer coats.

I have big hairy dogs all of my life. Lots of time spent grooming, but definitely not my favorite way to spend time.

I have been using the FURminator tools almost exclusively since the first version of this deshedding tool. The tools have been modified and improved over the years, and the 2011 FURminator model for cats is my favorite one so far.

My 2011 FURminator is marketed for “long-hair, large cats,” but this brush worked great for all of my dogs and cats, long and short-haired. Even the low-shed Greyhounds loved their grooming sessions.

I can pull out more hair (and prevent more mats) in just a few minutes with these brushes than others I have used in years past. No matter what model of FURminator you have, it is a worthwhile tool to have in your pet care cupboard.

Now what do you do with all of that hair?

The brushed out pet hair piles up quickly. I always try to do this task outside. Windy days are even better, scattering the hair. Free for the birds to use in their nests. That is what I do. My pet hair recycling program is pretty low key.

Here are some other ideas.

For the birds and others

I read somewhere that birds like to scavenge the nice soft fibers for their nest, so that is how my pet hair scattering program got started. I’ve also read that placing tufts of your pet’s hair around your yard or garden might deter some pests. I am not a gardener and haven’t tried this, but it can’t hurt to try.

For the environment

After the devastating oil spill in the gulf, pet and human hair was used to make oil-collecting booms. Recycling and saving the environment.

For the art of it

I have seen the photos of people wearing knit garments with yarn supplied from their dog before, but now that I have taken up knitting, this gives me pause for thought. More yarn! There are apparently lots of places that will spin your pet’s hair into yarn, but I am not quite there yet. No real ‘reason,’ other than I am used to the sheepy smell of wool. A doggy smell is not so appealing.

Plus, Purl the Greyhound loves to snatch a skein of wool and run through the house with it. What would she do snatching a skein of… Sophie? That might be weird.

But not as weird as this: clothing, jewelry and furniture made from human hair. That is where I draw the line.

What do you do with your pet’s hair?

Any crafty types out there? Environmentalists? I’d love to hear about your art.

April 29, 2011 update: Make HairBears!

Posted in K9 Care, K9 Expert Question, K9 Fun, K9 Health | 1 Comment »

Slow Down, Chow Hound

March 31st, 2011

Eating too fast. Gulping large quantities of food (and air) in seconds. This is a problem that I have not had to deal with for any of my dogs. I have always had “regular” eaters, some even picky. Gulping was not a problem. Until now.

We failed Fostering 101 last week and adopted “Burro,” now “Purl” the Greyhound. She, like Argos, had a very ravenous appetite when she arrived, and we had to remove all extra temptations of food on tables or counters. She inhaled everything.

Unlike Argos, she hasn’t calmed down on eating. She may have even been trying to eat faster, it was hard to tell.

I am working to add a few pounds to her frame, so the good appetite is great. But this quick food intake can also be a problem. If they also swallow a bunch of air with the food, it may lead to bloat or vomiting or discomfort.

For pets prone to putting on pounds, calories add up quickly, too. It is hard to resist that “wow they are really hungry I should give them more” feeling.

Ways to Slow Down Food Intake

Here are a few ideas to slow down eating. Every dog is different – what works great for one dog will frustrate or bore another. Try out a new technique or consult a dog training professional for ideas/products that resonate with your dog.

1) Small meals throughout the day – Hopefully reducing the over-anticipation. Also reducing amount of food for the body process at one time. You could divide the portions further to 4-5 servings a day if that works with your schedule.

This worked great for Argos. He was fed three times a day for the first few weeks. He completely calmed down around mealtime, including laying down until he gets the signal that his dish is ready. He is a very deliberate eater now.

2) Interactive food toys – I purchased a Kibble Nibble Dog Toy prior to Purl. This was for Sophie and Argos, both moderate eaters at the time. Neither one not needing to slow down or lose weight, but something to engage them and keep them busy.

Each dog played differently with this toy: Watch video of Argos | Watch video of Sophie

There are many other toys like this on the market. Some are food-dispensing puzzles, some are designed to slowly release food with activity, similar to the Kibble Nibble.

For the food dispensing toys, the entire day’s ration can be put inside, releasing the ‘meal’ over several hours.

3) Human treat dispenser - Veterinary Behaviorist Sophia Yin DVM MS advocates the “learn to earn” method of training.

In a nutshell:

“For the fastest training dogs should earn their meal throughout the day when you are home. That means no food in the food bowl. Instead you’ll carry food around with you in your pockets or bait bag or have it available in easily accessible containers in throughout the house. Then throughout the day, when you are home, you’ll reward appropriate behavior.”

From The Learn To Earn Program (PDF)

With three hungry dog mouths to feed, this would take more time than I have in my day. So I opted for…

4) Brake-Fast® Pet Food Bowl – I learned about this dish a few years ago from my friend (also a veterinarian) who has Labs. And we all know how Labs love to eat! It was more of an amusement at that time, since I did not have a need for this bowl for my dogs.

Until now.

After three full weeks with no slow-down in sight, Purl needed help. At first, I turned one bowl upside down in her regular bowl to add an obstacle. That worked for a few feedings until she figured out how to flip out the extra bowl.

We purchased the Brake-Fast® bowl on a Saturday, and by Tuesday she was eating slower than the other dogs, the last to finish. More importantly, she is calmer about approaching her food and eating. Hopefully in another week or so, she will be a normal paced eater. Time will tell.

Do you have a chow hound?

Please share what worked to slow your dog’s food intake in the comments below. Always good to have new ideas and products to try out. Just in case.

Posted in K9 Care, K9 Expert Question, K9 Health, K9 Nutrition, K9 Rescue | 10 Comments »

Spring Cleaning and Poison Prevention

March 22nd, 2011

Pet people know that Poison prevention is a year round  job. And, for the 46th year, the third week in March has been designated Poison Prevention Week to bring additional awareness to common household dangers.

The third week in March is on the cusp of spring, even though it may not feel like it. Yay spring cleaning! Time to get ‘fresh eyes’ and see what can be tossed and what should maybe be stored a little safer.

It’s easy to feel as if everything is “pet proofed” with resident pets. Adding a new pet, or in our case, Burro the foster Greyhound, helped provide those “fresh eyes” for potential dangers.

Burro has a penchant for pencils and plastic. Chomp, chomp. The other day, she grabbed an empty pill vial off of the counter and had the lid off quicker than I could get to her. It was empty, destined for the trash, but one more reminder of how quick and unpredictable pets are.

Probably no coincidence that human medications are one of the top pet poisoning questions received at Pet Poison Helpline.

Most common toxic household items:

(as reported to the Pet Poison Helpline call center)

Human medications: Common human drugs including NSAIDs (e.g. Advil®, Aleve® and Motrin®), acetaminophen (e.g. Tylenol®) and antidepressants (e.g. Effexor®, Cymbalta®, Prozac®) can cause serious harm to your pets when ingested, sometimes given intentionally by well-meaning pet owners.

NSAIDs can cause serious stomach and intestinal ulcers as well as kidney failure.

Acetaminophen can damage red blood cells in cats, limiting their ability to carry oxygen, and in dogs, it can lead to severe liver failure.

Ingestion of antidepressants, which, of all human medications account for the highest number of calls to Pet Poison Helpline, can lead to neurological problems like sedation, incoordination, agitation, tremors and seizures.

Xylitol: Many sugarless gums, including some Trident™, Orbit™, and Ice Breaker™ brands, contain xylitol, a sweetener that is toxic to dogs. Candies, mints, flavored multi-vitamins, desserts and baked goods may also be made with xylitol.

Even small amounts when ingested can result in a life threatening drop in blood sugar, or with large amounts of ingestion, liver failure.

Signs of xylitol poisoning include vomiting, weakness, difficulty walking, tremors and seizures.

Flowers: With Easter and spring right around the corner, flowers will begin to bloom. As beautiful as they are, some flowers can cause severe toxicity, or even fatalities, in animals. Certain types of lilies including tiger, day, Asiatic, Easter and Japanese lilies, are highly toxic to cats. Severe kidney failure can result from ingestion of even a few petals, leaves, or even the pollen. (And that pollen gets everywhere.)

Lilies are commonly included in grocery store bouquets. As beautiful as they are, I do not let them in my house. Not worth the risk with ever-curious Quincy and sometimes-plant-eating Barnie.

In addition, ingestion of certain spring bulbs (e.g. daffodils, tulips) can cause severe vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal pain. More serious reactions include abnormal heat rate or changes in breathing.

Chocolate: While the occasional chocolate chip in one cookie may not be an issue, certain types of chocolate can be very toxic. Baker’s chocolate and dark chocolate pose the biggest problem. The darker and more bitter the chocolate, the more dangerous it is to our pets.

The chemical toxicity in chocolate is due to methylxanthines (a relative of caffeine) and results in vomiting, diarrhea, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, seizures, and possibly death.

Fertilizers: Many fertilizers are basic gastrointestinal irritants. However, some are often combined with dangerous chemicals and compounds called organophosphates or carbamates, which can be harmful or deadly to pets.

Ingestion can result in drooling, watery eyes, urination, defecation, seizures, difficulty breathing, fever and even death.

Pest Control Products: Rodent, snail and slug baits are often used to keep pests at bay. However, if ingested, these poisons are extremely harmful to pets. They are highly toxic and without immediate veterinary attention can be fatal.

Rodent baits typically can result in blood clotting disorders, brain swelling or kidney failure, while snail and slug baits can result in severe tremors or seizures.

Poisons and Baits Stored Away, but Safely?

Just because rat poison is green, or blue, or hidden underneath, or on top of, the work bench out in the shed aren’t reasons for dogs not to eat it. It is a bait, it is enticing. With the newer rodenticides and slug/snail baits, the toxicity is highly concentrated. It just isn’t worth the risk for me.

If you do use these items, assume your pet will seek them out and move drawers and boxes to get at them. You never know.

Happy spring (cleaning)!

Related: CE with Dr. Justine Lee – Top 10 Toxins in Small Animals and How To Treat Them (free Continuing Education webinar)

Thank you to Pet Poison Helpline for top poisons info.

Photo © Willeecole | Dreamstime.com

Posted in K9 Care, K9 Expert Question, K9 Health, K9 News | No Comments »

Home Alone – Is Your Dog Safe?

March 2nd, 2011

More than ever, pets are being accepted as members of the family. Not just a dog who lives in the yard and goes for a walk now and then; they live with us, eat with us, and travel with us.

Businesses have become more pet friendly (when the health laws allow) and pet-specific businesses, such as doggie daycare and serve yourself dog washing places, are now the norm, not the exception.

Some work places allow employees to bring their dog to work. (And if they don’t, maybe they would reconsider for just this one day.) People who work on the road or at home also get lots of time with pets.

But what about those times you need to leave your pet? Have a little alone time? Most of the time, this is fine. Sometimes though, all of this togetherness may exacerbate separation anxiety behavior in dogs that are prone to this type of anxiety. That is a big topic for another day.

For now, let’s take a look at ways to ensure your house is safe when you are away.

Home Alone Safety Tips

1) Pet-proofing: Most of us have a “pet-proofed” home already. At least while we are in the general vicinity. Assuming your pet isn’t hungry, doesn’t need to go outside for a bathroom break, and is not bored, what will they do while you are gone?

Look around with new eyes, make sure all medications (human and animal) are safely locked away. I once left a brand new, unopened bottle of Vitamin C on the counter and went to work. I didn’t think much of it at the time, but lo and behold, my dog ate almost the entire bottle while I was gone. Why did he do it? No idea. Pets eat icky and weird things. Thankfully he was fine, but there was lots of cleaning up to do.

The same goes for cleaners, chemicals and foods, especially foods toxic to pets, such as raisins and grapes, xylitol in gum, and chocolate. Dogs can smell “inside” boxes and cupboards, and are adept at opening them, too. Same goes for cats. My cat Quincy opens drawers and cupboards with ease. Thank goodness for baby locks.

2) Baby gates: While some pets roam the house freely, never causing a problem, creating safe areas for your pet to be in while away is a good idea for many. When thinking of a ‘safe place’ to contain your pet, think of the flooring – easily cleanable, non-chewable surfaces are ideal. Any items such as shoes, laundry or rugs should be removed to prevent chewing and ingestion.

The type of gate is an important consideration. Not all baby gates are created equal. Some may be deadly. Consider how “chewable” the gate material is. Is the construction sturdy? Could your pet hang himself or be injured if the gate falls over?

3) Crates: Opinions vary on crates – everything from “love them” to “no way.” Much depends on the type of crate and the dog. Some dogs love their crate and go there if they are feeling scared/unsure. Other dogs resist crate time. With proper training, crates can be a valuable tool to keep your pet safe in the house and in other situations, such as traveling.

Chew-safe toys, such as a Kong, serve to keep your pet busy and happy when crated.

4) Outside time: If you live in a temperate climate with a safely enclosed yard, this is a great option. I live in a definite “four season” climate, so optimal conditions are only at certain times of the year. For dogs outside, it is important to provide fresh water, shelter, and to prevent heatstroke and protect from winter cold and elements.

One note about dogs in yards - theft of pets is a sad reality. Ensure your pet’s enclosure is safe, and that proper ID is on your pet.

5) Doggie daycare: I used to wonder about doggie daycare. Who would go? Why is it needed? But a place to drop off your pet where s/he is safe, gets to play with humans and other dogs, and food/water or any medications can be given on time is a good thing. And a valuable service for the furry members of today’s busy households.

A Few More Thoughts On Pets Alone, Together

If you have mixed pet populations, keeping them separate while they are alone might be wise. My dogs and cats live in harmony, but it is a fairly common occurrence to see a paw (most often a kitty paw) take a passing swipe at a dog nose, apparently “just because.” No problems arise while I am right there, but wonder if things get out of hand? Do cats or smaller pets have a place to “escape” to if things get out of hand?

If you have very small pets, such as hamsters or guinea pigs, is there any way that the dog or cat could access the room they are in or their housing? Teeth and claws can work wonders on housing that seems safe…

Years ago, a client had three dogs, one of them an epileptic dog. The anti-seizure medication phenobarbital usually kept the seizures at bay, but now and then the dog would have a seizure. Once the dogs were alone when this happened, and the other two dogs attacked this dog, requiring sutures. Something to consider if you have an epileptic, diabetic, or other “special needs” pet.

Another scenario happened while I was at our local emergency clinic a few weeks ago. A sweet Dachshund, with a large laceration in the ‘armpit’ and a few surrounding bite wounds. This dog was not an epileptic, but was housed with two larger dogs. They were alone. No one knows exactly what transpired, but when the client came home, this dog jumped up into her lap, and the wounds were discovered.

Pets are unpredictable. That is part of the deal. (And a big part of why mine bring a smile to my face every day.) With a little planning and foresight, homecomings can be the happy reunions we always assume they will be.

Photo: Happy at Home / TravisIsaacs on Flickr

Posted in K9 Care, K9 Expert Question, K9 Fun, K9 Health, K9 Stories | 1 Comment »

Caught on Film (and Other Helpful Tips) To Help Your Vet

February 9th, 2011

It wasn’t that long ago that buying a video camera was a big purchase of technology. And a big piece of equipment, too. Same with cell phones, big in size and price.

Now, prices and sizes have shrunk. And video is everywhere, including on many of our cell phones.

Why does this matter for our pets? We love to take photos and videos of all of the cuteness, of course. But these tech tools may also help our pets, as well.

Tools for Sharing Pet Health Info With Your Vet

Here are some high tech and low tech ways to help provide valuable health information to your veterinarian.

1) Video – Credit to Nancy Kay DVM DACVIM for this excellent post on the many ways video can be a great diagnostic aid. Seizures, reverse sneezes, odd gait (lameness) or behaviors are great situations for video, since many are hard to reproduce in the exam room when the pet is nervous and excited.

2) Smartphone apps – Apps are everywhere, and many are free or less than $5.00. I reviewed a Pet First Aid app – great when quick info is needed until you can reach your vet. Do you have a favorite pet health app? Please tell us about it.

3) Journal – This is an “old school” tip, but one that can be modernized by the many note-taking apps and software. Journaling works great for conditions such as seizures, reactions to food or medicine, or any time you are trying to find a pattern to your pet’s signs or behavior. Noting the date, time, what the pet was doing before and after the event, and the duration and signs seen during the event, will greatly help your veterinarian put the puzzle pieces together.

4) Calendar – Related to journals, but in a broader sense. When your vet asks you when was the last time your pet did ____, or what day/week/month did you apply parasite preventative, knowing the date is always better than a guess. Time flies, and it is easy to be off by quite a bit relying just on memory. (At least it is for me!) I also set up email reminders from my calendar when I need to be reminded about preventatives, etc.

5) Wax paper – Wax paper? I love wax paper (or parchment paper, or even plastic wrap) for keeping track of various lumps and bumps you may notice on your animal. It is always recommended to check these out with your veterinarian first. You may be advised to “watch and wait” regarding a lump. Tracing around the mass with a felt tip pen, dating it, and storing it away will help reduce the “is it bigger today?” worry and possible misjudgment. This will also provide a good record to show to your vet if there are any changes noted.

6) Feeding cup – Another easy tool to provide accurate information to your vet. If you pet gains or loses weight and your vet asks “how much do you feed each day?” Replying “two scoops” is not as exact as “two cups,” because… how big is a scoop? It varies. Your vet may have exact measuring cups available for you to keep track of your pet’s intake. On the other hand, bringing in the food scoop to the vet visit will also help your vet assess amount.

7) Bathroom breaks – This tip is for those of us who have a large fenced area for their dogs to do their business unattended. It is easy and freeing to just let them out, trusting business to be done, but it is also good to accompany them and/or go for regular walks to make sure urination and defecation is normal in frequency, consistency, and that your pet isn’t having any difficulty or discomfort at toilet time.

Recognizing what’s normal for your pet (and what’s not) is one of the best tools you have for keeping your pet healthy. The sooner any problems are addressed, the better.

Related Reading

• Canine Physiology and Anatomy Facts – What’s “Normal” For A Dog
• Normal Changes as Your Dog Ages
• Feline Physiology and Anatomy Facts – What’s “Normal” For A Cat
• Normal Changes as Your Cat Ages
• My dog’s nose is dry. Is he sick?
• Should I Call The Vet?
• Is this post abdominal (spay) surgery lump “normal”?

Posted in K9 Care, K9 Expert Question, K9 Health | 1 Comment »

More Than Just Fresh Breath

February 3rd, 2011

Don’t get me wrong – fresh breath for pets is good. It’s wonderful. But it is more than that.

February is Dental Health Month, the annual spotlight on dental health, brushing teeth, and dental cleanings. It is also a way to promote education – how to recognize dental disease and the importance of staying on top of things. Many veterinary offices offer specials on cleanings and equipment needed to keep your pet’s teeth sparkling.

Daily brushing of your pet’s teeth will not only keep those teeth clean and breath fresh, there are other big advantages, too. Let’s take a closer look.

More Than Just Fresh Breath – Here’s Why:

It is a low-cost method of overall health maintenance
Regular brushing will help “spread out” full dental cleanings. Keeping teeth clean also helps keep the body healthy; particularly heart, liver and kidneys that may suffer from the high bacterial load that comes with a rotten mouth.

The tools and materials are low-cost
No fancy tools or equipment are necessary to brush your pet’s teeth. A pet toothbrush and toothpaste kit usually costs between $5-7, and less, if you have coupons.

Human soft bristle toothbrushes (like the pink one pictured) may be used, but the pet ones (green toothbrush) may make things a little easier. Pet toothbrushes are angled for easier brushing and have large and small soft bristle head options to accommodate different mouth sizes.

Important – always use pet toothpaste! The fluoride in human toothpastes must be rinsed out and may be harmful for your pet when swallowed.

Related: Tips And Tools For Home Dental Care

Daily inspection of your pet’s mouth alerts you to potential problems
Some of the most important things you can do for your pet’s health are knowing what’s normal and what’s not. Having a daily look at your pet’s teeth, gums, tongue, lips, and nose will familiarize you with your pet’ s “normals.”

Any new lumps or bumps, wounds, sore spots, or bad smells should be examined by your veterinarian as soon as possible. Tumors such as malignant melanomas can be very aggressive – finding them early is important.

Be on the watch for:

• Broken or missing teeth – see an extraction of a fractured tooth
• In young pets, teeth that don’t fall out as they should, known as retained baby teeth
• Swellings that are painful
• Lumps that are new, discolored, or causing the teeth to ‘move’
• Pain or resistance to having the mouth opened
• Drainage from the eyes or nose may have roots in dental problems
• Drooling, difficulty eating, or reluctance to eat (learn more)

Some things you may notice are normal, such as black spots on orange tabby cats. But…it is always important to check things out with your vet before assuming something is “normal” or not.

Getting Started

This is usually is the hardest part; getting started and keeping going. A great first step is a veterinary exam and dental cleaning – a nice clean canvas to work on is inspiring (especially after paying the dental bill!). Your vet can show you the best tools and methods for your particular pet’s anatomy and personality.

Video: How to Brush a Dog’s Teeth

I’ve heard it takes 3 weeks to develop a habit. Write it down on the calendar, and check it off when completed. Picking the same time each day helps build the routine.

It’s never too early to start, either. Even for puppies and kittens with the most beautiful white teeth – get them used to being handled, dealing with toothbrushes, and learn to enjoy this daily bonding time.

For me, I choose right after the last pet potty break before bed. Dinner is served 2-3 hours prior, and they won’t be eating anything else for the night. Now Argos stops by the toothpaste cupboard each night after coming in, waiting for that yummy beef flavored toothpaste! Teeth brushed, the enzymatic toothpaste can sit and work all night.

Related Reading:

• Is anesthesia necessary to do a dental cleaning on my pet?
• Top 8 Care Tips for after your pet’s dental

Posted in K9 Care, K9 Expert Question, K9 Health | 1 Comment »

6 Free (Or Almost Free) Stuff for Pet Health

January 27th, 2011

Today’s economy is tough. Routine veterinary care is becoming a luxury for some dogs and cats.

What can we do? Start small. Keeping our pets healthy is a first step. Some of these ideas can also be applied to animals awaiting homes in shelters and foster care, too.

6 Free (Or Almost Free) Stuff For Pets

1) Go for a walk

• Cost: Free
• Benefits: A happy, healthy dog. Healthier you, too. I find that even if I feel that I am too busy/it’s too cold/it’s too hot/I’m too tired, I always feel better after a nice walk with the dogs.

2) Brush their teeth

• Cost: $5 -7 for pet toothpaste and toothbrush. You can use a human soft toothbrush to save money, but do not use human toothpaste or mouth rinses. Dogs won’t spit out the fluoride like we do. Most pet toothpastes work with enzymes, and do not need to be rinsed. And bonus – they are flavored with yummy things like chicken and beef!
• Benefits: Healthy teeth, gums and mouth. Dental disease affects more than the mouth – heart, liver, and kidneys can suffer from the bacterial load of dental disease. Keeping those pearly whites clean and white equals good health, and less problems necessitating vet visits.
• How to do it: Tips and Tools for Dental Health
• Related post: More Than Fresh Breath
  

3) Check their weight

• Cost: Free.
• How to do it: At home, weigh yourself, then you and your pet together, and subtract the difference. This can be difficult to do with a large dog and one bathroom scale. Most veterinary offices have the easy walk-on platform scales where you can weigh your pet at no charge. (Call ahead to ask what the best days/times are for stopping in.)
• Benefits: Knowing your pet’s weight and optimum/target weight keeps everyone honest and on the right track. Added to that, visiting the vet for “non-stressful” visits such as a weight check help dogs (and cats) who may not enjoy vet visits, car rides, or meeting new people.
• Related: Tips to reduce your cat’s stress in the car and at the vet

4) Keep them safe in the home
Pets eat stuff they shouldn’t, and sometimes tip over a burning candle or potpourri. We want to keep them safe all of the time, but what if there is an emergency or fire while we are away? Here are some free alert stickers for all of these situations.

• Cost: Free, or for cost of a stamp.
• Benefits: Information at your fingertips and piece of mind for emergencies.
  Free fire alert rescue stickers – from ADT
  Pet Poison Helpline clings (requires self-addressed stamped envelope)
  Pet Safety Pack – from ASPCA
  Rescue Sticker and Alert Cards – from ARF, Animal Rescue foundation

5) Keep track of them and find them fast if lost
No one wants to think of their pet being lost. But wonder if they are scared by a thunderstorm or disoriented in new surroundings while on a trip? Pet ID tags and microchips have reunited thousands of lost and separated pets.

• Cost: Here is a free ID tag.
  For other ID tags, check with your vet or one of the many places online to buy pet ID tags. For microchips, check with your veterinarian or local pet shelters and rescues. Some even offer microchip “clinics” with discounted prices. Once your pet is microchipped, it is important to register the chip. Fees may apply, and vary with the service the chip is registered with.
• Benefits: Quick reunions. Lost pets are at risk of being hit by cars, or end up in shelters, where disease or euthanasia are possible outcomes.

6) Check in with the vet
Some vets offer “free first exam” and some cities have low-cost options for veterinary care at shelters or clinics. Call your shelter or local veterinarian for options in your area.

• Cost: Here is a free new pet exam at Banfield Veterinary Hospitals.
• Benefits: Establishing a vet-pet relationship is good for many reasons. Besides a health exam and head start, your vet is a resource to call if you have health questions or concerns, or need a record of care if your pet needs to be boarded or needs emergency care in the future.

One more…
While I didn’t include this on the list, good nutrition leads to good overall health. You can also find many free pet food samples on the web and on K9Cuisine, too.

Posted in K9 Care, K9 Expert Question, K9 Fun, K9 Health, K9 Nutrition, K9 Rescue | No Comments »

Reasons Your Pet May Stink

January 20th, 2011

No one wants a stinky pet. But it happens sometimes.

People ask what is the “best” shampoo to get rid of pet odors. But… pets don’t normally stink. Something is up.

Let’s take a closer sniff.

Reasons Your Pet May Stink

… and what to do about it.

Rolled in something dead or rotting – it happens
Easy fix: shampoo followed up by a conditioner. Pet shampoos are plentiful and preferred – better balanced for your pet’s skin.

Got sprayed by a skunk – always a surprise
Not as easy, but possible. Skunks are no fun to tangle with. Here is a de-skunking recipe.

Bad breath – this can be a powerful close-up deterrent
Vet check: dental exam. Tartar? Some dental care is in order.  Your vet will also examine the mouth for any unusual growths or pockets of decay.

Ooh those ears – stink incubators
Vet check: Bacterial infections on their own or secondary to other ear conditions are very, very smelly. The ears need to be flushed by your veterinarian and medications started. Your vet can teach you how to clean and maintain your pet’s ears on a regular basis.

Frito Feet – corn snack or popcorn, anyone?
First step: take a closer look. Might just be normal, but don’t miss important signs of problems.

Scootin’ and Stinkin’ – anal sac problems
Vet check: anal sacs contain a very smelly secretion that should empty when your dog or cat defecates. Sometimes it doesn’t, causing the sacs to overfill, become impacted (plugged), and in some cases, abscess. Your vet can show you how to monitor and empty anal sacs for repeat offenders.

Stinky All Over – skin problems
Vet check: skin that is bothered by parasites or sensitive from allergies is actively secreting oils, which in turn go rancid, causing bad odors. Add to that chewing, scratching and licking… more odors.

Shampoos will help, but skin cases really need a diagnosis to attack the root of the problem and calm the skin down. Normal pet skin should not be stinky.

Learn more: Preventing skin problems

More about: Stinky Pets

Does Your Pet Stink?

What’s your pet’s stinky story? Did you find the cause, and how did you get them smelling good again?

Posted in K9 Care, K9 Expert Question, K9 Health | 3 Comments »

Top 5 Cat Toxins

January 12th, 2011

Even though this is a “dog blog,” and dogs are most often the culprits for raiding the garbage can, the litter box, doing the counter surfing, and eating whatever gross things they can find, cats eat bad things too.

According to the Pet Poison Helpline (PPH), dogs do account for most of the calls, but almost 9% of the calls for 2010 were for cats.

The Top 5 Cat Toxins in 2010

1.  Human or veterinary drugs

Cats are a different animal when it comes to metabolizing drugs. Cats should not be given common human drugs like aspirin and other anti-inflammatory drugs. Just one acetaminophen (Tylenol) tablet can be fatal to a cat. Unfortunately, people unknowingly poison their pets, thinking that they are helping them.

The staff at PPH note that “cats also seem to like the taste of certain antidepressants (e.g., Effexor), which seem to contain an attractive smell or flavor in the coating.” A word of warning for those who think “no way” would a cat voluntarily take a pill or tablet.

Veterinary drugs are often meat-flavored and meant to be enticing to pets. Extra caution is advised when storing veterinary drugs. This happened to me with my cat Quincy. I had some flavored Baytril (veterinary antibiotic) tabs sealed in a bag, in a drawer, but he managed to claw open the closed drawer and tear open the packet. No harmful consequences, but I won’t be counting closed drawers as “safe” anymore with him.

On another occasion, I believe (but can’t prove) that Quincy ripped into a bag of large dog size Pill Pockets and had some tummy trouble resulting in IV fluids and a night at the pet emergency resort for monitoring.

2.  Poisonous plants

Cats love to play with, and bite off, household plants. Quincy again! I find bits and pieces of my beleaguered plants everywhere around the house. Thank goodness I am  not much of a green thumb and only have 4 plants in the house, all non-toxic. But still.

We do have to watch cut flowers that come into the house. Very often these flower bouquets contain lilies – big, beautiful and fragrant. I love them, but they are very, very toxic for cats. Even if a cat brushes against the lily and gets pollen on them to be groomed off later, that could be a toxic ingestion, causing kidney failure and death. I don’t allow any lilies in the house. Just not worth the risk.

3.  Insecticides

From PPH:

Nine percent of feline-related calls in 2010 were for cats exposed to household insecticides or inappropriately treated with a topical flea and tick medication meant for dogs.

Dog-specific insecticides containing pyrethrins or pyrethroids are highly toxic to cats. Poisoning occurs when pet owners apply such products directly to cats or cats lick these medications off dogs that live with them. (italics are my emphasis)

Severe drooling, tremors and life-threatening seizures can occur. Always read labels carefully before using any kind of insecticide and ask your veterinarian about appropriate topical flea and tick medications for your cat.

I am lucky to live in a flea-free area. Fleas love humidity and warm temps and I don’t, so I live in a more arid climate.

4.  Household cleaners

From PPH:

Many cat owners don’t realize that some common household cleaners like kitchen and bath surface cleaners, carpet cleaners and toilet bowl cleaners can be toxic to cats. Symptoms can include profuse drooling, difficulty breathing, vomiting, and even organ damage.

It is getting easier and easier to “go green” with the safer cleaning products out there. Not a guarantee that it won’t be toxic to your pet if ingested, but hopefully less so. Good old vinegar and water is a great cleaner for many surfaces, and cost-effective too.

5.  Other toxins, such as glow sticks and liquid potpourri

From PPH:

Glow sticks and jewelry contain a very bitter tasting liquid called dibutyl phthalate. While rarely deadly, just one bite into these items can cause your cat to drool profusely. Most of these exposures can be managed at home. Offer (but do not force) your cat chicken broth or canned tuna (in water, not oil) to help to remove the bitter taste from the mouth.

Liquid potpourri can be spilled (and consequently licked up/off of paws) and may cause burns. Many essential oils are toxic to cats, too. Please use extreme caution when using liquid potpourri around pets.

It’s Never Good To Wait

Poisonings are always something to deal with immediately. A wait-and-see approach may mean organ failure or death as the toxin invades the body. If you think a pet may have ingested something harmful, take action immediately. Contact your veterinarian or Pet Poison Helpline at 1-800-213-6680.

Related Reading:

• Oh, The Icky Things Pets Have Eaten
• Toxic Foods and Other Pet Poisons

Posted in K9 Care, K9 Expert Question, K9 Health | 2 Comments »